Just a Delhi Slice..

We arrived in Delhi after 11pm - and I highly recommend this tactic.  The airport, which is surprisingly metropolitan and shiny, was reasonably quiet and the process of customs and their equivalent of immigrations went quickly.  From the number of lines that the have available and the amount of space allotted for 'queueing', I think that we definitely got off easy.


We had prearranged a hotel in the market area close to the train station, and they set up a pick up for us.  It was nice to have someone waiting for us with the little name placard - especially once we stepped out of the shiny airport and into the humid night air.  Taxi's seemed to be everywhere, and our driver very expertly herded us through multiple cab stands and haggling drivers.  His cab, however, was pure Delhi.  The thing was 50 years old if it was a day - sported quilted velvet and sparkle interior (he demonstrated the comfort of the seats with a firm hand and a huge smile).  His top speed was about 25mph, even on the expressway - but at least we passed the 3 wheel rickshaws (tuk tuks) and ox carts. 

The only thing missing was the fringe!

At one point, our driver stopped on the (very) narrow shoulder and without adieu got out of the car.  I worried briefly that he was going to abandon us for some sin we didn't even know we'd committed.  Luckily, he was only checking the tires - and even luckier, the were all still on.  I guess there was reason for doubt on that count.  He clasped his hands in prayer and we sped off.  Sort of.  He did offer us some of his wife's own chapti and chai, in a pail and thermos on the rear deck.  I think he was a bit sad that we didn't take him up on it - though he did get to 'accidentally' cop a feel on my knee, so I think he made out alright.


Our hotel was in what seemed at night to be a sketchy area.  But it was clean enough and we chose it more for convenience than for long-term comfort.  Our room was quiet and had the appropriate plumbing fixtures (and if you know India, you know what I mean), though it lacked a real window.  I suppose this helped with the quiet part.  The designers had installed a fishtank in each room, presumably to replace the window on some psychological level.  The fish in our tank resembled small sharks and moved constantly in an almost desperate pattern.  Hardly relaxing.   

Our 'window'

I have to say, though, that after 16 hours on planes and nearly 12 in airports, I barely noticed much other than the pillow.


The darkness in the room helped us to sleep until what seemed to be a decent hour.  India is exactly 12.5 hours off of Tucson time, so we knew that the whole sleep/wake thing might take some adjusting.  Although I woe up about a million times, I managed to stay horizontal until nearly 6am.  We had a nice Indian breakfast in the hotel dining area on the roof.   The roof was also evidently available for some sort of accommodations, and we woke a few of the gentlemen there with our poking about for photos.  Sorry, boys.

Sarah peruses the extensive breakfast menu

A delightful quiet space in the midst of Delhi

After breakfast we decided to brave the bazaar below.  With the sun, many of the shops had also literally come up, and the street was alive with vendors, ox carts, rickshaws and men porting about heavy loads on their heads.  It was a landscape where every square inch of space had something being bought, sold, made or taken apart.  I'd read about the Indian ingenuity and talent for handicraft - and it was everywhere right on the street.  I could write a whole book on the market and the hour or two we spent there...

Notice the scale the vendor is using to weigh the produce

Scenes like this were repeated throughout our trip - and made it VERY hard not to indulge in street food!

Makes me wanna do some cooking!

I don't know who I pitty more - the ox who has to pull this thing, or the man who had to load it.

This street side barber shop was a model of efficient use of space!

An excellent example of 'mixed use zoning' - retail on the street, workshop in the back, living quarters above.   Who needs stairways that just take up unnecessary room?  ;)

Sarah tries to cross at a typical busy intersection.  It's not that folks ignore traffic laws...there are no traffic laws.

Bicycles were the primary goods transporter on these tight streets...and they were very creative in how they loaded them.

One day I'll have to figure out the use of the these shiny metal boxes - they were sold everywhere!

We did encounter 2 gentlemen in succession who politely (in the Indian sense)  asked us where we were from and how long we'd be visiting their beautiful country.  The second man actually hung on for some time, stressing that he only wanted to practice his English and get some good tour-guide karma for when he made his visit to our country.  Although I continue to be suspicious of his motives even now, I must admit he was helpful and that in the end he just vanished on his own.  It's very possible he was just a genuinely happy man wanting these two American ladies to enjoy what he thought was the wrong bazaar for nice tourists like us.

We checked out of our room and made our way to the train station for the next leg of our trip...

Sarah sports our Trekker's Special Triple Bag Techique.  It made quite an impression on the Indians, I assure you!